Ohmygod, it’s pouring. I usually have weird luck with zeroes; when I’m in town, it’s sunny, then when I get out again, it rains. Not today! The dining room is full of glum hikers getting ready to head out. People I know are here! Like Womble and Morph, from England! Every time I think I’m seeing somebody for the last time, I see them again. I love this trail. It’s probably the same on the other two trails, if you can keep up.
Everybody’s talking about their weight loss. It’s a typical thing, at this point going NOBO. Just like ticks and bears, skininess is an inevitable part of long-distance hiking (they say that at the end all the men look like POWs and the women look like supermodels 😂). People are currently obsessing long and hard about how to pound more calories. Packing out mayonnaise. Drinking olive oil. Me, the plan today is three big meals, maybe four if I’m ballsy enough to go down to that tiny restaurant that many times, and a pound of trail mix that I found in the hiker box. I’ll probably scrounge in the hiker box later, too. Also, I’m adding serious condiment calories. Five butters on my French toast. 🤣 I’d go seven, but I’m too embarrassed to empty the little bowl.
I really love this place. It’s comfy and cozy—not posh enough for my mother, but all fireplacey and lodgey and woody and dark, stuffed with vintage children’s toys and fat photography books and a spinnet piano, and it’s probably a great place to spend time if you’re skiing or leaf peeping. Irish music in the background. Irish food in the pub (plus regular burgers and such). Irish kitsch everywhere. (Live Irish music on weekends.) I’d love to come here for my birthday one year, except Vermont in winter (no freaking way) and it’s New Year’s weekend (no freaking way). 🤓
Is syrup good for phones? Asking for a friend.
My new shoes are sprayed, my food is half organized, and I poked at my schedule. I’ll be staying in Glencliff in a couple of weeks, so I’ll hash out the Whites there. I’m seriously considering slackpacking Mt. Moosilauke. We’ll see.
Random thing I’ve wanted to mention but haven’t had the leisure to do so. There was this one major highway crossing a week or two back. I hate highway crossings. I’m more afraid of them than anything I’ve encountered on trail, except the Knife’s Edge in PA. My glasses are so terrible that I don’t trust I’m seeing all the cars in the glare, and some of these are major, four-lane, high-speed highways. I’m full of dread for hours if a highway is coming up. (We might be done with the big ones at this point.) So there was this one highway, and Guthooks was full of warnings. “Take care! Cars zoom! Bad crossing!” And for the first couple of hiking hours, I’d pass southbound hikers saying “Be careful! Lots of construction! You’re going to die!” I was vomitous by the time I got to the highway—and don’t you know, they were paving it and there was an actual flagwoman right there. 😅 She stopped all the traffic for me, so it was the easiest highway crossing yet! But that’s not the point of the story. The point of the story is that the new asphalt was smoking hot. They’d just laid it down and were steamrolling it smooth. The crossing guard said, “That surface is super hot, so don’t use your poles.” OK, I nodded, and when she stopped the cars, I ran. I could feel the burning right up through my shoes! And that’s the point: I think I melted the bottoms of my shoes a little, or melted or wrecked some coating or treatment of the rubber that gave them traction. I’ve been slip-sliding like crazy. So I’m thrilled to get these shiny new shoes in my resupply box! Last new shoes before Monson. I want fresh ones for Katahdin (and home).
The hiking today was BWAHAHA there was no hiking today!
What else? Nothing! Futzing with my gear for a couple of hours until the restaurant opens at 11. Maybe I’ll take a shower. And then another shower!